Coriander has lacy, feathery foliage with a unique, strong aroma quite different from the other herbs it resembles so closely in appearance, such as anise, caraway, dill, and fennel, all of whose leaves have, in varying degrees of pungency, a warm, spicy anise-scent. A mixture of lemon peel and sage is one description of the flavor of fresh coriander leaves. The mauve-tinted white blossoms appear in summer in frothy profusion, followed by fruit, which, when green and un-ripened, have an even stronger scent than the foliage. In fact the name coriander is derived from the Greek koris, which means bug: the soft green seeds do smell exactly like an emerald-colored, odoriferous insect which infests citrus trees. When the small, oval coriander seeds have hardened and ripened to a pale fawn color, they are one of the most deliciously fragrant of all spices used in cooking. Fresh coriander is sometimes known as Chinese parsley.
History and mythology
Coriander grew first in Southern Europe, and centuries ago found its way to many other countries. The Romans introduced it to Britain; it also found its way to India, the Middle East, China, and Peru, to name some of the lands where it has become a favorite herb.
The Egyptians made use of it in ancient days and for the Hebrews it was one of the bitter herbs used at the Feast of the Passover. In the Bible the seed is likened to manna, tasting “like wafers made with honey.”
History records that it grew in the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. The Chinese believed that the seeds contained the power of immortality.
The whole seed was once popular in confectionery and provided the centres of rainbow balls.
Cultivation
Before planting the seed, choose a position which is both sunny and sheltered, as the young plants need protection from prevailing winds to prevent them from falling over. Work the soil until it is fine and crumbly, adding a little lime if the ground is acid. Incidentally, coriander seed remains fertile for five to seven years. Sow the seeds in spring (and again in autumn fall in temperate zones) directly into the ground in V2 inch (12 mm) deep drills, 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Cover and pack the soil down well, then keep moist until the seedlings appear. Water regularly in hot, dry weather, preferably in the late afternoon or evening so as not to scorch the plants. As they grow, they may need tying to thin bamboo or wooden stakes.
Harvesting and processing
Fresh coriander leaves may be picked at any time during the growing period. For drying, spread leaf sprays on sieves in a warm, airy place, and when crisp, crumble the leaves from the stalks and store in airtight containers. For freezing, the ice-cube method is not recommended, owing to the strong odor of the foliage. It is better to parcel up freshly washed sprays in foil, folding the edges firmly, and then put them into the freezer where they will keep for several weeks. To harvest the seeds, cut off all the heads when they are about to drop, and dry them, like ripe anise, on sheets of paper in a shady place, exposing them to the sun when possible. They are ready to store when the fruit falls away from the shriveled flower-heads if given a light shake. Sieve out any pieces of stalks, and pack the seeds into airtight containers.
Various uses
Culinary
You will find coriander leaves in Egyptian, Mediterranean, Oriental, and Indian cooking. We tasted it once in a French restaurant, employed discreetly in a simple chicken dish, giving it a hauntingly delicious flavor. The fresh leaves garnish curries, rice, and other ethnic dishes, and once you become used to the flavor, your palate will tell you when to add it for a piquant, individual touch. The seeds are used far more frequently, and when whole, contribute to other spices in a pickling blend. The ground seed flavors fish, poultry, and meat dishes. It is a useful spice in fruit cakes, ginger-bread, biscuits, pastries, and bread. The ground seed is also excellent sprinkled over apples, pears, and peaches while baking. A pinch flavors eggplant (aubergine), zucchini, and bell peppers (capsicums). Ground coriander seed is a necessary ingredient when mixing a curry blend or a mixed spice blend.
Coriander’s uniquely aromatic green leaves and the spicy mature seeds are used widely in the Middle East. The Afghan name is “gashneez,” in Arabic it is “kazharah,” in Cypriot, “koliandros,” in Iranian, “geshniez,” and in Turkish, “kisnis.” Coriander is known in Morocco as “kosbor.” The Berbers believe that coriander and parsley should always be used together. Coriander is also an ingredient in tagines (stews), chermoula (a marinade), and couscous.
Coriander leaves are known as cilantro in North and Central American cuisines. The distinctive flavor of the leaves makes them indispensable in much Mexican food and they are always used fresh. In Mexico coriander may be bought with its roots intact and stored in the refrigerator, standing in a jar of water and lightly covered.
Cilantro is used in Creole and Cajun cuisine, in the southern states of the USA. The distinctiveness of these cooking styles lies in the seasoning. For instance, coriander (cilantro) oil, is blended with garlic, salt, and pepper, and then rubbed into chicken breasts, or lamb chops, before grilling. Coriander oil also dresses a rocket (arugula) salad together with peppered goat cheese and roasted walnuts.
Traditional Touisiana gumbos may contain okra, seafood, meat, or vegetables, or any combination of these, with seasonings of chopped fresh herbs. Garlic, parsley, bay leaves, basil, thyme, fennel leaves, and cilantro are all recommended in different recipes, depending on the cook. File powder is another important ingredient, made of dried, ground sassafras bark, and thyme. It is used to thicken and flavor some gumbos and is always added after the pan is removed from the heat, otherwise the file clots and becomes ropey.
Cilantro is important in South American dishes, such as cebiche, or ceviche. This seafood dish features peppers, red onion, lemons, limes, and fresh cilantro or other herbs. It is acknowledged that the best ceviches are found in Peru, Ecuador and Chile, followed by the rest of the Spanish-colonized countries of South America. To make a good ceviche the seafood and all the other ingredients must be absolutely fresh, including citrus juice, peppers, onions, and a choice of vegetables. Finely chopped cilantro is used in nearly all the recipes. In a mussel ceviche, cebiche chores, thyme, and Italian parsley are the herbs chosen. Often coriander and parsley are employed together. Dill can also be substituted for coriander in many ceviches.
Cilantro is used extensively throughout Asia, except in Japan. The leaves are frequently used for garnishing in India and China, but it is most popular as an ingredient in Thailand, where not only the leaf but the stems and roots are ground for use in curry pastes. There the plant is called “phak chee”.
Medicinal
Hippocrates and other Greek physicians employed coriander in their medicines. The digestive action of the seed is particularly effective with carbohydrates and has been used traditionally, whole or ground, in breads and cakes. Coriander’s use in cornbread, or polenta, goes back to the early Romans. Coriander water (like dill water) was used to ease windy colic. The ground seed, or fluid extract, was often incorporated into laxatives to help make them more palatable, and to prevent griping. Coriander seed, crushed and inhaled, will relieve dizziness. Because of this, it was once called “dizzycorn.” It was among plants mentioned in the Medical Papyrus of Thebes, written in 1552 B.C. Coriander was also believed to be good for purifying the blood and was frequently prescribed for kidney stones and other urinary dysfunctions. European cultures recommend a tea infusion or a soup of coriander leaves and barley water as a tonic-stimulant for convalescents. Ancient Egyptians over 3000 years ago placed sprigs of fresh coriander in tombs to protect the souls on future journeys.
Companion planting
Coriander when grown near anise helps anise seeds to germinate and to grow into bigger, healthier plants. On the other hand, coriander has the opposite effect on fennel and will hinder germination of the seeds. It has been noted that coriander likes the company of chervil; they make good companion plants. Honey bees are attracted to coriander flowers.
